Hiking Bohemian Switzerland National Park: Routes and Tips

Bohemian Switzerland is a national park in the far north of Bohemia, on the border with Germany. The landscape is unlike anything else in the Czech Republic: deep sandstone canyons, freestanding rock formations, dense pine forest, and the largest natural rock arch in Central Europe. It is a serious hiking destination that most visitors to Prague have never heard of.

Getting There

The nearest town to the main hiking areas is Hrensko, which sits at the point where the Kamenice river joins the Elbe. From Prague, the journey takes about two hours by train to Decin, followed by a bus or taxi to Hrensko. Direct buses from Prague also run in summer.

By car, the drive from Prague takes about an hour and forty minutes via the D8 motorway north toward Dresden. Hrensko has a car park, but it fills quickly on summer weekends. Arriving before 09:00 avoids the worst of it. There is also a car park at Mezni Louka, which is a better starting point for the longer trails.

The Main Attractions

Pravčická brána

The Pravčická brána is the largest natural sandstone arch in Europe, with a span of 26.5 metres and a height of 16 metres. The walk up to the arch from Hrensko takes about 45 minutes on a well-marked trail through forest. The arch itself is impressive, and the views from the terrace below it extend across the forested plateau into Germany.

The Falcon's Nest (Sokolí hnízdo) restaurant is built into the rock directly beside the arch and has been there since the 19th century. It is a reasonable place for lunch with an unreasonable view. Walking on the arch itself is not permitted.

Edmund Canyon and Wild Canyon

The Kamenice river runs through two gorges in the park: the Edmund Canyon (Edmundova soutěska) and the Wild Canyon (Divoká soutěska). Both are navigated by flat-bottomed boats poled by guides. The Edmund Canyon is the longer and more dramatic of the two, with walls rising 30 metres above the water in places. The Wild Canyon is shorter but has sections where the gorge narrows to just a few metres wide.

The boat trips run from Hrensko and take about 30 minutes each way. You walk between the two canyons on a forest path. The whole circuit, including both boat trips, takes about two to three hours from Hrensko.

Longer Hiking Routes

The park has an extensive network of marked trails. The Czech trail marking system uses coloured stripes on trees and rocks — red, blue, yellow, and green — and is reliable enough to navigate without a detailed map, though a map is worth having for the longer routes.

The Gabriela Trail (Red Trail)

The red trail from Hrensko to Mezni Louka is the main long-distance route through the park, covering about 12 kilometres with around 400 metres of ascent. It passes through the Edmund Canyon, climbs through forest to the plateau, and continues to the village of Mezni Louka. From there, buses return to Hrensko or Decin. Allow four to five hours for the full route.

Pravcicka brana Circuit

A popular half-day circuit starts at Mezni Louka, follows the blue trail to Pravcicka brana, continues along the ridge to Pravcicka Chalupa, and returns via the red trail. The total distance is about 8 kilometres with 200 metres of ascent. The ridge section has good views in both directions on a clear day.

What to Bring

The trails are well-maintained but can be muddy after rain, particularly in the canyon sections. Waterproof footwear is useful even in summer. The forest provides shade on hot days, but the exposed sections on the plateau can be warm. Water is available at the Falcon's Nest restaurant and at Mezni Louka, but not on the trails themselves.

The park authority website at npcs.cz has current information on trail conditions, closures, and transport options.