Prague Castle Route: A Full-Day Guide to Hradcany

Prague Castle is the largest ancient castle complex in the world by area. Most visitors spend two or three hours there and leave feeling they have seen it. They have not. This guide covers a route that takes a full day and actually does justice to the place.

Getting There: Avoid the Main Gate

The obvious approach is through the main western gate on Hradcanske namesti, which is also the most crowded. A better option is to take tram 22 to Pohorelee and walk down through the Strahov Monastery gardens, entering the castle complex from the south. You arrive near the Lobkowicz Palace and the Riding School, which most visitors never reach at all.

Alternatively, walk up from Mala Strana through the Old Castle Steps or the New Castle Steps. Both are steep but give you a sense of the castle's position above the city that the tram approach does not.

Morning: The Cathedral and Old Royal Palace

Start at St Vitus Cathedral as early as possible. The building took nearly 600 years to complete, and the interior reflects that layered history. The stained glass windows are exceptional — the Art Nouveau window by Alfons Mucha in the third chapel on the left is one of the most striking things in the building. Allow at least 45 minutes here.

The Old Royal Palace next door is often overlooked in favour of the cathedral, which is a mistake. The Vladislav Hall, built in the late 15th century, has a vaulted ceiling of extraordinary complexity. Jousting tournaments were once held inside the hall — the ramp in the adjacent Riders' Staircase was built so knights could ride horses up to the floor.

The Story of Prague Castle exhibition in the basement of the palace is detailed and well-presented. If you have an interest in the history of Bohemia, it is worth an hour of your time.

Midday: Basilica of St George and Golden Lane

The Basilica of St George is the oldest surviving church building in the castle complex, dating to the 10th century. After the baroque and gothic grandeur of the cathedral, its plain Romanesque interior is a striking contrast. The frescoes in the apse are original.

Golden Lane runs along the northern wall of the castle. The small coloured houses were built into the wall in the 16th century and were originally inhabited by castle guards and craftsmen. Franz Kafka lived briefly in number 22 while writing. The houses are now small museums, and the lane itself is picturesque enough to justify the short detour even if you skip the interiors.

Afternoon: Lobkowicz Palace and the Gardens

The Lobkowicz Palace is privately owned and not included in the castle ticket — it requires a separate entry fee. It is worth paying. The collection includes original manuscripts by Beethoven and Mozart, Bruegel paintings, and a well-curated display of Bohemian history. The audio guide is narrated by members of the Lobkowicz family, which gives it an unusual personal quality.

The Royal Garden to the north of the castle is free to enter and offers a quieter alternative to the main courtyards. The Ball Game Hall at the far end of the garden is a Renaissance building with an elaborate sgraffito facade. The views from the garden back toward the castle are among the best in Prague.

The Hradcany Quarter Beyond the Castle

Most visitors leave the castle and head straight back down to the city. The Hradcany neighbourhood that surrounds the castle is worth exploring first. Novy Svet is a small street of pastel-coloured houses that feels entirely removed from the tourist circuit. The Strahov Monastery, a short walk west of the castle, has a library with two baroque halls that are among the most beautiful rooms in Prague.

For further reading on Prague's history, the official Prague Castle website has detailed information on all the buildings and current ticket prices.