Cesky Krumlov: A Practical Visitor's Guide

Cesky Krumlov is one of the best-preserved medieval towns in Central Europe. It is also, in July and August, one of the most crowded. This guide is about making the most of the place regardless of when you visit.

Getting There from Prague

The journey from Prague takes about three hours by bus, which is faster and more convenient than the train for this particular route. Student Agency (now Flixbus) runs regular services from the Florenc bus station, and the buses are comfortable. The train requires a change at Ceske Budejovice and takes longer.

By car, the drive takes about two and a half hours on the D3 motorway south from Prague. Parking in the town centre is limited — the main car parks are on the northern edge of the old town, and from there it is a short walk down to the historic area.

The Castle

The castle sits on a rocky promontory above a tight loop of the Vltava river, which gives the town its distinctive shape. The complex is the second largest castle in the Czech Republic after Prague Castle, and it is in remarkably good condition.

There are two main guided tours. Tour I covers the Renaissance and Baroque rooms of the castle, including the ornate Masquerade Hall with its trompe-l'oeil frescoes. Tour II focuses on the Schwarzenberg apartments from the 19th century. Both are worth doing if you have the time, though Tour I is the more visually impressive of the two.

The castle tower is open independently of the tours and gives the best view over the town and the river bend below. The queue for the tower moves quickly. The castle theatre, which retains its original Baroque stage machinery, can be visited on a separate tour and is genuinely unusual — there are very few theatres of this type still intact anywhere in Europe.

The Old Town

The old town below the castle is small enough to cover on foot in an hour, but it rewards slower exploration. The main square, Namesti Svornosti, is lined with Renaissance and Baroque buildings and has a plague column at its centre. The streets leading off the square are narrow and largely unchanged in their basic layout since the medieval period.

The Egon Schiele Art Centrum is worth a visit if you have any interest in early 20th century art. Schiele spent time in Cesky Krumlov — his mother was from the town — and the museum holds a collection of his work alongside temporary exhibitions. It is housed in a former brewery.

The River

The Vltava loops around the old town in a near-complete circle, and the riverside paths offer some of the best views of the castle and the town. Canoe and kayak hire is available from several operators near the town, and paddling the river is a popular activity in summer. The stretch from Cesky Krumlov south to Rozmberk nad Vltavou takes about four to five hours and passes through quiet countryside.

The view from the castle gardens looking down over the river bend is the classic image of Cesky Krumlov. It is best in the morning before the tour groups arrive, or in the late afternoon when the light is better.

When to Visit and How Long to Stay

The honest answer is that Cesky Krumlov is best experienced by staying overnight. The day-trip crowds arrive around 10:00 and leave by 17:00. In the evenings, the town is quieter and the castle is lit up. Morning light on the old town is also considerably better for photography.

If a day trip is your only option, arrive as early as possible — the first bus from Prague arrives before 09:00 — and aim to be at the castle when it opens. By the time the main crowds arrive around midday, you will have already seen the most important parts.

For more information on castle opening times and ticket prices, the official castle website is kept up to date.